The French Cellar in Jill Lowe (January edition)
Jan 01, 2018
Interview of our sommelier Nicolas Rebut by Jill Lowe
1. When did you first discover your passion for fine wines?
The first time was with my grandfather with whom I learnt wine making in his vineyard. Then, during my studies in catering college, we had to pair all the dishes with wines. Thus, I got to learn how to taste wines to imagine and propose the best pairings.
2. What are the different aspects that you would consider when selecting a bottle of wine?
The quality of the wine of course, the work method of the winemaker, the wine tasting occasion (what dishes) and finally the vintage - because as everyone knows, we discover the best winemakers during difficult vintages.
3. In your opinion, is there a difference in palette between the Asian wine connoisseur in comparison to that of the American or European palette?
Yes, I think we did not get exposed to the same culinary traditions. So, our palates do not necessarily experience aromas in the same way, and we need to find these culinary points of reference (aromas, structure) in wines.
4. What is it like, being able to fully experience the entire process from exploring vineyards to building personal relationships with wine makers and estates in your search for the perfect bottle of wines.
I spend a lot of time in the vineyards. This is critical for me, for at least two reasons: to discover new vineyards and talents, and to meet winemakers so I can understand the way they make wines. Even when i am disappointed by the wines, it is enriching to have met the winemakers. Winemakers need to meet us as well to be sure we understand what we are talking about. In the wine tasting notes I prepare for The French Cellar, I try to express the emotions and extra information I get from my time in vineyards.
5. Your book " Une Affaire de Gout" brings focus to pairing wines with Asian dishes. Are there different wines to pair with the different types of desserts?
Yes, it is the same process, but even harder for desserts. Desserts are often very complicated to pair. A lot of people think that a dessert should be paired with a sweet wine but it is not that obvious. What is important is to play with subtlety, sometimes in contradiction (not necessarily sweet with sweet). We have plenty of wines and sparklings which can be paired with desserts
6. What bottle of wine would you recommend to pair with a well-loved signature Singaporean dish: the Chilli Crab?
Considering the complexity of this dish, I would choose a very aromatic white wine, round but with freshness to balance against the spiciness of the dish. But it could as well be a young red wine, fruity, spicy as Cairanne Richaud 2011. The pairing is original and tannins from the wine will soften thespices of the dish.
7. What is your all-time favourite bottle of wine?
A wine I recently discovered, from from my home region (Savoie, in the Alps): Cuvée Schiste 2012 (white) from Domaine des Ardoisieres. This is a young winemaker, Brice Omont, who is doing an outstanding job. It was easy to convince the greatest Chefs to choose this estate for their fine dining restaurants.
Four wines were featured in the Magazine: Clos des Fées Les Sorcières, Chateau Olivier 2001, Bollinger RD 1995, Yquem 1990
